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Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Onwards, upwards, outwards and backwards.

I've decided that shallots are evil little things and that anyone who can grow them to the highest standard deserves to be tied to a dunking chair for they are surely practitioners of witchcraft most foul! On checking mine yesterday I found that a couple had already started to go out of shape and these were ones that I got up first so it obviously doesn't follow that they start to go out of shape when the new growth has stopped. Perhaps some just have it in their genetic make-up? I managed to harvest about forty at 48mm diameter so hopefully I'll be left with plenty to make a set or two. I'm also trusting that the red tinge to most of them will go once the loose skins and first complete guard skin are rubbed off come show time. Purple skinning has been much more prevalent this season and indeed if you are exhibiting in a marquee and they are left overnight this colour will start to appear even on the brownest of bulbs unfortunately. It is actually a fungus.




I have been keeping a close eye on the weather forecast as conditions are getting very close on occasions to being perfect for potato blight. When temperatures are above 10degrees C and there is 80% humidity for two consecutive days , then conditions are potentially perfect for the blight spores to start bouncing up into the atmosphere and landing on your precious potato foliage (and outdoor tomatoes!). This is what is known as a 'Smith Period' (fine name but a shite disease). As rain is forecast again in the next few days, with temperatures in the upper teens I took the opportunity of a dry evening to spray my spud foliage as a preventative measure. As the Irish once found out to their cost, when your spud foliage shows the first signs of the dark blotches signifying they have been infected then your spuds will be dollops of ground snot within days. As Dithane is no longer available to the amateur gardener I used Bayer Disease Control which several growers reported good success with last season. I used a single sachet of the blue/green powder in a one litre sprayer and gave all my spuds a good covering, making sure I also squirted into all the nooks and crannies of leaves lower down rather than just spraying the canopy. I shall repeat this process every 10 days whilst conditions persist.



It has been one of the worst summers I can remember for the large black slugs. Walking down the garden on damp evenings there are literally hundreds of the damn things, some as big as mice. I've read that these large slugs are actually carnivorous but I don't believe a fucking word of that and have been liberally scattering slug pellets across the plot. On a Facebook Allotment Group I belong to one chap called me 'clueless' for advocating the use of slug pellets, which I shall remember with huge smugness when I'm tucking into my roast carrots and spuds this autumn and he's no doubt crunching up more eggshells, stockpiling branflakes and nursing his bad back from his nightly rituals of bending down to pick them up by torchlight. Fucking twat.

I did buy some Slugclear which you water in, with the intention of using it on my celery. Last year, because of the huge amounts of water you have to give to celery, I found that slug pellets were being washed away and I did suffer a few stick nibbles, so I felt Slugclear could be the answer. However, when I read the instructions (for once!) on Slugclear I observed that you should NOT use it on edible crops. The 'not' was highlighted in bold black letters with the address of an undertakers in the smallprint beneath. Now, I can't stand celery and neither can the rest of the family, but my mother-in-law does so despite the very real temptation I decided to stick to pellets for now. My celery is still looking good and about 20" tall on average. I have been feeding Chempak no.2 at half strength and dribbling calcium nitrate solution into the plants to prevent celery heart rot. A regular spray of Decis prevents the celery leaf miner rendering them useless for show.



My onions are averaging 14 1/2" diameter ***(I mean circumference of course!) and put on a 1/4 of an inch overnight. I have a dilemma in that I now don't know whether to pull them at 18 1/2" which is what Dan recommends for the 1.5kg class or let them grow bigger and have a go at the large onion classes. I think I may be biting off more than I can chew by doing that so I'll be content with 3 pounders this season and try and aim for good uniformity for the 1.5kg option. And still no sign of bolting, white rot or botrytis. Surely this cannot continue?



My long beet 'Regar' were all thinned to one per station a couple of nights ago but I fear I made my sowing way too late to have any chance.



And as well as having some long rows of globe beet 'Pablo' I have also sown 16 stations in cored holes in sand, filled with the same mix as for the long beet (it was left over!). Mark Hall grows all his globe beet this way and he certainly does get some nice round roots with long taps. I've always felt it was a lot of trouble to go to but I'm giving it a go in this small trial and see how we get on.


Not sure I'll be able to exhibit any cherry toms this season as little eyes have found them and finds it very funny to flick the flowers!



15 comments:

islayguzzler said...

Onions are looking so impressive Simon, and the rate of growth is tremendous, so understand your dilemma!
Neil

Anonymous said...

18.5 diameter, Looks like a new world record. Mind you they don't look like they are 56ins circumferance

Unknown said...

been using that tape measure again
tosser

Dan Diameter said...

Don't forget my 18.5" were quite tall shouldered bulbs so they weighed a bit more.
Yours look a bit shorter so you might want to go for 19 or 19.5 ?
You'll have to weigh one at 18.5 then curse me when it's only 1200g like Mr B did last year.
P.S I agree with the last poster....it's circumference.
I'm glad you're not pricing me up some steel.....jeeeesus!

Simon (Smithyveg) said...

Yes alright girls.....I've corrected my little faux pas!

That one is actually not typical of the rest which are more upright.

ontheplot said...

Onions are looking great Simon, Growth rate is very impressive. How long from harvest to show.

Simon (Smithyveg) said...

Guess i'll leave them as long as they're growing well. As I'm not showing till mid-September that could be mid-August. The strong tops indicates there's plenty in the engine room yet.

mistyhorizon2003 said...

Re-blight, tell me about it. My spuds in bags are suddenly all going do.wn with it, and I am frantically removing the damaged leaves and dumping them elsewhere. So depressing! I am also very concerned that it will find its way into my greenhouse where the tomatoes are, (which is right next to the potatoes!!) Anyway, I have bought the same stuff you have, and am spraying for the first time ever tomorrow (I never normally spray anything.) Just hoping if I spray fortnightly until the local show in August I might be okay as most of the foliage looks okay so far.

Simon (Smithyveg) said...

The thing with the spray is it's preventative rather than a cure so you need to spray before you get it. Best of luck with picking off affected foliage but I don't think you'll stop it that way i'm afraid, unless it's a very early detection.

mistyhorizon2003 said...

Well it is pretty early as loads of the bags are unaffected so far. The ones that are the foliage is mostly only damaged for about four or five inches on certain branches, (not all). Only about three bags were completely ruined with the foliage a mouldy mess, and two of these I moved away from the other bags as soon as I spotted it. The third bag was lurking in the middle of my bags, and I didn't see it until I began to actively search for signs of further blight.
I have read stuff that says if you catch blight early the spraying can still be effective, so I shall give it a go as soon as it stops raining here!! I am now not sure whether to also spray my greenhouse toms as a precaution, but the spray packaging says to spray toms 'at the first signs of blight', not in advance.

By the way, I did discover Dithane on ebay if you are still stuck for finding it, (even though I had already bought the Bayer stuff anyway).

mistyhorizon2003 said...

Went down to spray my spuds today and horror of horrors, the blight was far more advanced than I thought. In fact in the two days since I last looked at them (couldn't spray then because it wouldn't stop raining) the majority of the bags are riddled with it, and all the Blue Belle and the Vanessa bags are really beyond help I suspect.

Still in complete denial I duly spent two and a half hours chopping off all the damaged foliage I could, and then sprayed what was left of each plant (not much in most cases) with the Bayer stuff. Really not expecting it to work as not a single bag out of 29 bags was unaffected. I also sprayed my nearby greenhouse tomatoes at the same time, and additionally my outdoor chilli plants which were by the potatoes.

Any suggestions for what I could grow in the spent compost next year bearing in mind it will have blight spores in it? I just don't want to believe that I honestly spent over £70 this year on it and got nothing to show for it at all, (not to mention the exorbitant amounts I spent on Vitax Q4 too).

Simon (Smithyveg) said...

I'm afraid I did think you were on a doomed mission sadly. If you were to have any chance whatsoever you needed to pick off any affected leaflets in the very earliest stages as blight is so quick to get down to the tubers once it hits. The only surefire way is to spray before you get it.

The tomatoes in the greenhouse should be fine as long as you're not splashing water around. Tomatoes require a dry atmosphere. I spray any foliage that is near a door or vent as a precaution. Chillis are a different plant family and will not be affacted by potato blight

The spud compost will contain blight spores so use it well away from any future solanum crops.

mistyhorizon2003 said...

Thanks Simon, I was worried about the Chilli's because I also read that blight can effect them, plus they suddenly began to look really dishevelled.

I expect I will end up using the compost to improve the clay soil on my allotment next year then as I don't grow potatoes on there and it is a five min walk away from our house.

Simon (Smithyveg) said...

Chillis can get a different blight but it's not related to potato blight......prevalent in waterlogged soils apparently. Oooops! Damn weather!

mistyhorizon2003 said...

That might well explain what I read Simon. Anyway, hopefully the spray might help regardless even if just to help them against the type of blight they might have that made them suddenly look so depressed with curled up brown edges to their leaves.